Here’s a small weekend project that I worked on to address a few small annoyances that I had with my Presto HeatDish Parabolic Heater. The goal here was to replace the internal temperature regulator with a solid state relay driven with a variable frequency PWM signal for faster switching frequency, improved control sensitivity, and wider operating range while maintaining existing safeguards such as tip over and overheating protection.
The more reliable my 3D printing setup gets, the greater the desire to move towards printing more exotic filaments. Materials such as nylon (PA) or polycarbonate (PC) have better trade-offs in mechanical properties compared to PLA or PETG filaments in areas such as strength, temperature resistance, and stiffness at the cost of being harder to print. One of the common requirements for printing such filaments is that the printer needs to be fully enclosed and heated to prevent drafts and temperature differentials from warping off the print bed mid-print.
Here I’ll also document and provide source files in this post for the various modifications I’ve made to my Prusa i3 MK3S in the process of moving it into a custom heated enclosure.
Continue reading 3D Printer Heated Enclosure
Design files for this project can be found here
Update 11/15/2020 – Added bucket dryer improvements and notes on molecular sieves
There has been some recent developments in exploring the impact of moisture on 3D prints, and from my experience so far I’ve found that having dry filament makes a significant difference in both print quality and consistency. For the types of filament that I typically print with, drying the filament drastically reduces the amount of ooze and stringing, resulting in a noticeable improvement in print quality. Filament that is too dry however tends to have worse bridging characteristics as some plastic (PETG) becomes too sticky.
Continue reading Filament Dry Box
I had accumulated quite a number of vacation days at work that I would have lost at the start of the new year, so I decided to burn it all by taking a long three week vacation in Japan. The trip itself centered mostly on the Kansai area near Osaka and Kyoto, with a excursions to a few other cities on the Sanyo and Tokaido shinkansen lines.
Update 12/18/2020 – Updated design to revision E3
Update 2/1/2021 – Added notes on cooling performance and upgrades
Earlier this year I bought and assembled my own Prusa i3 mk3s as a quick way to iterate on various mechanical projects in the comfort of my apartment. There are plenty of reviews online for this model so I won’t be providing my own review here. I will however, say that this printer has vastly exceeded my expectations for the price. The small list of modifications that I have made to this printer so far include:
- Replacing the extruder head with a Bondtech Upgrade Kit for more consistent prints.
- Replacing the hotend components with a 50W heater, PT100 w/ amplifier, titanium heat break, and copper block to support high temperature filaments.
- Replaced the hotend unit with TriangleLab’s Dragon hotend.
- Installing the Bear X Extruder with the Bondtech X Carriage for the better belt tensioning mechanism.
After replacing the above components, I still encountered issues with uneven cooling on bridges and overhangs. This prompted me to try my hand at designing a better cooling shroud that evenly cools from all sides.
Continue reading Prusa 360° Cooling Shroud